【原美學工坊專欄】萬聖節應景文：掛在樹上的不是南瓜頭，是人頭……！Happy Thrilling Halloween, No Pumpkin Head on the Tree…… But Men's Heads!

原文標題：〈泰雅族馬力巴群神秘的人頭樹〉

每個部落，都有流傳許多鮮為大眾知道的奇風異俗，在現今南投縣仁愛鄉瑞岩通往力行部落附近的一條產業道路上，就有一棵神秘的「人頭樹」。而在人頭樹附近禁止喧嘩，也不可靠在樹邊，否則傳說會全身會長滿爛瘡，或是罹患不治之症。 但為何會稱呼它為「人頭樹」呢？ 原來以前距離這棵大樹前方的空地便是泰雅族人在出草後，將獵得的頭顱進行祭天的祭場。而離大樹小徑大約五十公尺左右，便是泰雅族馬力巴群 Malepa 部落。在舉行儀式時，所有部落裡的人，都會聚集在這片空地的廣場上，婦女們都會盛裝列隊，準備佳餚歡迎勇士的到來。 當放置好獵得的人頭，會將酒灌入頭顱內，並讓部落的小孩們排隊喝下頭顱裡的酒，之後大人甚至會將頭顱的血抹在孩子們的臉上，希望他們將來長大也能一樣勇敢。之後族人在接受族人們歡呼喝采後，會將頭顱吊掛在樹上，並在長老的帶領下，進行表揚勇士們的凱旋祭儀式，通宵達旦唱歌跳舞慶祝勝利。 至於砍下的人頭是那裡來的？在古時代的部落，只要越過一座山，甚至是一條河，或入侵到他人的領土和地盤，那些已經越界、或有不同語言，生長在不同地域的族群，都會視被視為敵人，因此展開一場殊死戰，並打到一方能成功斬首出草，平安獵得首級，攜回部落舉行儀式。  

部落怎麼玩？

位於南投縣仁愛鄉的力行部落在泰雅語裡稱作 Malepa（馬力巴），意思是「住在高處」的意思。這裡實際上又可分為兩個聚落：一個是新望洋部落，另一個是紅香部落。 紅香部落的泰雅族人很早就在享受當地的溫泉」，只是當地人不喜歡稱作「紅香溫泉」，而是稱為「烏來」－－因為「烏來」（Ulay）在泰雅語裡就是「溫泉」的意思（編按：這也是新北市烏來溫泉的名稱由來）。 除了紅香部落，附件還有大片的秋海棠可賞花；每到秋天，附近楓葉轉紅，也非常好看。若能忘掉過去泰雅族出草的恐怖故事的話，這裡可是個假日踏青的好去處呢！

• 部落景點：紅香溫泉
• 交通指南：從埔里走 14 號省道，過霧社後循14甲省道轉往力行產業道路，開25公里的車程後轉進產業道路，就可抵達紅香部落的溫泉。
• 電子地圖：

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Every indigenous community has its own exotic customs unknown to us. For example, on the way to Malepa in Nantou in Central Taiwan, there is a mysterious Tree of Men’s Heads; you shall not clamor or stay around the tree; otherwise, you would get infected with ulcer all around your body or get something incurable. So, why do people call it the Tree of Men’s Heads?   So there is the story: In front of the tree used to be the place where the Tayal people worshiped to the men’s heads they hunted after the practice of head-hunting. And just 50 meters away was the Tayal community of Malepa. When the men finished a head-hunting, all the tribal women would get dressed well and queue up around the place in front of the tree, welcoming the return of the warriors. The people would pour wine into the men’s heads, or the skulls, and have the tribal children drink the wine in the skulls. And the adults would wipe the blood of the skulls onto the children’s face in hope that they would become brave warriors. After the celebration, the people would hang the skulls on the tree, and sing and dance over night. So who were the owners of the skulls? In the tradition of Taiwanese indigenous peoples, those outsiders who dared to go across a mountain or a river which did not belong to their community or tribe would be regarded as intruders and would be hunted head. The two sides must fight until one could successfully kill the other, and return to their community with the hunted heads.  

What to do in the Community?

The name of the community Malepa in Nantou in Central Taiwan is a Tayal word, meaning “living in a high place”. But actually Malepa can be further divided into two communities: Mek-Moyau and Ulay. The Tayal people from Ulay have known to enjoy hot spring since very long, as there is a hot spring — Actually in Tayal, a hot spring is called ulay, which is the origin of the name Ulay and also a popular tourist attraction Wulai in New Taipei City, also a good resort for the hot spring. Besides the hot spring, an abundance of hardy begonia is cultivated nearby for people to watch; every Autumn, the maples turn red, making Ulay a fantastic place to visit. View a large map  

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